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Rarotonga, situated in the Pacific is 1 of the 15 islands that make up the Cook Islands. Rarotonga is the largest island of the group and by this association the main island, where the seat of government and administration lies.

Rarotonga, with its International Airport provides a gateway for its people to the rest of the world and for the people of the world, an entry point to the15 islands of the Cooks.

Kia Orana. In the Cook Islands these are the two words we use to greet each other, at any time of day or night. Literally, it translates as, 'May you live'. Align this train of thought with idyllic tropical surroundings; a rich cultural heritage, and an enviable relaxed environment then you'll find yourself embracing our piece of   'heaven on earth'.

About Rarotonga

Rarotonga has less than 8000 people living here. You begin to wonder where they all are after you've been here a couple of days.

Circling Rarotonga on the Ara Tapu (main coastal road) will see you travel through the 3 vaka or districts, here. (See Rarotonga's Traditional Side below) You'll come across stallholders in the various villages, selling pawpaw, limes, lemons, grapefruit, oranges, drinking coconuts, star fruit, passionfruit, guava, mangoes and bananas. Most of these foods are seasonal. (See Local Food below) Driving on the Ara Metua (inland road) will show you another side of Rarotonga that will have you see plantations of local produce, local flora and fauna and maybe a few more locals. Although this road does not go right around the island, just hop back on to the Ara Tapu and you can link up further along.

Avarua is the main town of Rarotonga and it is here that you will find Internet services, cafes, restaurants, bars, souvenir shops, supermarkets, money exchange, Western Union Transfer, police station, a shopping centre, cinema, banks and car and bike rental places.

The restaurants here are well established (see Eating Out below). Breakfast at Salsa Café renowned for its Smoked Marlin Hash with Poached Eggs. Lunch at the Tamarind House serves up Lasagna made with layers of Taro leaves and save some room for the best cheesecakes on the island. Dinner at Windjammer Restaurant tops off the day with anything on the menu.

Get lost in the million-dollar view as you sit on a beach in Titikaveka. Later on, get lost again watching the sunset from your beachfront home in Arorangi. Relax knowing that tomorrow will be pretty much the same. Back to Top

Getting Here

There are 2 international airlines that fly here. Air New Zealand and Pacific Blue.

Air NZ travels from NZ to the Cook Islands through to Tahiti, onto Los Angeles and return. This service is set to change on April 1st 2007, when it will then be flying direct from New Zealand into the Cook Islands to Los Angeles and return. This service will be once a week.

Pacific Blue flies into the Cook Islands, via Auckland and return.

These 2 airlines generally have cheap airfares to get here from New Zealand.

You can get more info on these websites or see your travel agent, www.airnz.co.nz and www.virginblue.com.au .

Visiting Here

You can stay up to a month here with a valid passport and a return ticket. It pays to have your accommodation sorted, as well. If you'd like to stay longer, extensions are granted on a monthly basis for a small fee. If you are going to stay for more than a month, get a job. You wont make a lot of money, but you'll make a lot of friends. The maximum stay for our visitors is 6 months, pending approval from immigration. You'll need to apply for an extension at least 2 weeks prior to your date of departure. I wouldn't leave it to the last minute, stressing out in paradise is not a good look. Back to Top

Currency

Our currency is the same as that of New Zealand. Our own local triangular $2 coin, $3 note and $5 coin cannot be used outside of the Cook Islands, though they make great collectable items, if that's your thing.

Medical Services

Make sure you get medical insurance. If you are going to travel this far, you'd be crazy not to.   Rarotonga is equipped to handle emergencies from toothaches to minor surgery. If an emergency situation arises that you need to see a specialist then you'll be flown to NZ. If you take special medication, bring enough to last the distance. The cost of visiting a doctor ranges from $20 for children and from $40 for adults.

Language

The 2 main languages spoken in the Cook Islands are Rarotongan Maori and English. You can pretty much get around without needing to know any Rarotongan Maori, although an honest attempt will never go unnoticed. In the glossary below, you will find a few words and phrases that may give your visit that little bit extra Cook Islands experience. Back to Top

Climate

We have 2 seasons here on Rarotonga, summer and winter. Summer is from November through to April, and winter is from May through to October. Summer is generally our rainy season, but this has changed because of changeable weather patterns. Temperatures range from 21 - 30 degrees in summer and 17 - 25 degrees in winter. Being on a small island in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, Rarotonga is susceptible to changing weather. The locals here generally go with the flow, in this respect.

Sports

Rarotonga has a very healthy sports ethos. Volleyball, rugby league, soccer, rugby, netball, boxing, handball, basketball, touch football, darts, lawn bowls, triathlon, swimming, outrigger canoe racing, golf, squash, marathons, athletics and tennis are all played here. Usually people will play more than 1 sport throughout the year. Having a very competitive edge, sport in Rarotonga also has its social aspect. There are a number of sports that are played here that are quite new to the island, and we have welcomed the training given to us by visiting experienced sportspeople.

Getting Married Here

Rarotonga continues to be the perfect backdrop for weddings. We have up to 700 weddings performed a year. People who have never been here find themselves 'tying the knot' on a white sandy beach or in amongst a beautiful landscaped garden at one of the holiday rental homes with family and friends. Celebrants are easy to arrange, as are wedding coordinators and if you are looking for flavour, there are dance troupes and string bands available for hire. Bring your own Moet though; it's too expensive here.  Back to Top

Dance

Traditional dance in the Cook Islands has always been an important part of our culture. Dance is encouraged at an early age and instilled throughout our lives as a reminder of who we are. Here on Rarotonga there are 2 main events that celebrate dance in the Cook Islands (see Festivals and Events below). Sensuous in its form, Cook Islands traditional dance continues to evolve, and yet maintain the essence of 'storytelling' through movement. Movement stems from themes such as, our environment, our history, our love, our tragedies, our day-to-day living, etc.

It is hard not to be mesmerized, as a dancer lures you in and takes you on a voyage. Where you end up after this voyage is entirely up to your imagination.

Carving

Traditional carving is preserved here on Rarotonga and throughout the Cook Islands through continued practice. Here on Rarotonga, master carver, Michael Tavioni works out of his studio in Atupa. Michael is renowned for his many commissioned works. Michael's knowledge of traditional designs and patterns ensures the art of carving will remain with us for some time. There are a couple of local businesses on the island that employ carvers and their works can be seen in stores such as Island Craft and the Beachcomber Gallery. Back to Top

Tattoo

The art of Tatau (tattoo) has gone through a revival since being abolished by the missionaries in the 1800's. There are a few Tatau artists' here on Rarotonga who continues to etch out designs, both traditional and contemporary. The most experienced of them Tetini Pekepo, or simply just 'T', is sought after by many locals and visitors, alike. His niece, Storm, works out of a studio in Avarua, and is fast becoming more and more popular with her 'works of art'. Working out of his studio at the Punanga Nui Markets, Boye Nicholas, patiently creates contemporary designs that have seen him adorn the likes of Missy Elliot, the infamous hip hop artist, as well as, many locals.

Tivaivai

Tivaivai (traditional quilting) has created itself a niche within the tapestry of Cook Islands culture. Since its introduction by missionaries, the art of Tivaivai has drawn interest and popularity through the visual impact it commands. Intricate and bold at the same time, the Tivaivai capture glimpses of our environment with such detail, you can't help but admire them and all the hard work involved in hand sewing them.

Traditionally, Tivaivai are used as gifts from mothers and grandmothers, to their children, as well as, to wrap the coffins of beloved ones who pass away. Tivaivai generally sell around the thousand-dollar mark. Some are priced even higher. There are contemporary versions of the Tivaivai and these tend to be machine sewn. Back to Top

Weaving

The art of weaving can be seen everywhere here on Rarotonga.   From thatched roofs, to baskets, fans, wall coverings, mats, bags, hats and fans. Weaving is taught in schools here at an early age. There are a lot of woven products that are made in the outer islands of the Cook Islands, such as the Rito hats and fans from the northern group islands. Wander into Island Craft and Tarani's in Avarua to have a look at the workmanship.

Music

The sound of the Cook Islands Drumming is exhilarating and unforgettable. Made from natural materials, these drums evoke the passion that we have for dance. Back in the day, drums were used to inform people. There were certain rhythms that were used for sacred rituals such as an investiture of a new ariki.   

When listening to the sound of drumming, a higher pitch sound means that the item being performed or the group come from the Northern Group and the lower pitch brings it down to the Southern Group of the Cook Islands. This is another traditional art form that is being taught in schools.

Contemporary Arts

Focus on the Contemporary Arts by Pacific Peoples has grown over the last 20 years internationally. This focus has seen audiences, critics and art practitioners captivated with dance, visual arts, literature, performance, music and theatre from within the Pacific region. Here in the Cook Islands, our artists' both local and abroad, are contributing to this focus through various mediums. Back to Top

Visual Arts

With increasing awareness of the contemporary visual arts scene here in the Cook Islands, Local and overseas-based artists' are establishing themselves here and abroad with increasing success. They are Ian and Kay George, Ani Dunn, Manavaroa Tim Buchannon, Bianca Whitaker, Eruera Ted Nia, Joan Rolls-Gragg, Varu Samuel, Jason Tini, Mahiriki Tangaroa and New Zealand based artists' Ani O'Neil, Jim Viviaere, David Te Ata and Sylvia Marsters. Accomplished local artists such as Manavaroa Tim Buchannon and Eruera Ted Nia may only exhibit once a year as their time is spent on 'commissions' for local businesses or visiting travelers'. Eruera has opened the new 'Inanui' art gallery in Avarua. It would be worth your while dropping in to have a chat with Ted and have a look around his gallery. Manavaroa works from his studio at home and can be called up to view his work. You can see his work at the Beachcomber Gallery, Sails Restaurant and the Bank of Cook Islands.

Festivals and Events

The following is a list of events that occur throughout the year here on Rarotonga.

March 30th - Composer of the Year
Original songs written and performed in our native tongue in this one-night-only affair held every year at the National Auditorium.

April - Air NZ International Triathlon
This is a popular event for overseas and local athletes looking to maintain training during their 'off-season'. The Air New Zealand International Triathlon grows in numbers every year.

April - May - Te Mire Kapa / Dancer of the Year
This competition is structured into different age groups, from junior to intermediate to senior up to masters. Visitors' also have a chance to show off their skills in the 'Papa'a' section, which has grown in popularity and hilarity every year. A popular event that marries new ideas with experience to hold the title of 'Dancer of the Year'

End of July - Tarai Vaka
This event has been set up to ensure that the craft of building 'vaka' is passed on. Recently revived, this event is dependant on sponsorship, to help bring our 'craftsmen' from the outer islands, to Rarotonga. At the end of the event, the vaka is sold off to cover costs.  

July28th - August 4th - Te Maeva Nui / Constitution Celebrations
This is the Cook Islands Traditional Performing Arts at its very best. Teams from around the Cook Islands gather here in Rarotonga to compete in a weeklong celebration of our culture. Every team rehearses for up to 2 months, with their best choreographers, composers; musicians, costume designers, dancers and singers. This feast of color, sound, imagination, humor, drama and excellence will engage your senses and leave you wanting more. The competition is set over 1 week. There are 2 categories that are non-competitive, the Imene Tuki and the Choral singing. Both of these categories are performed on 1 night before the competition starts. For four days over the next week, groups compete in the Ura pa'u (drum dance), Kapa rima (action song), Pe'e (chant/drama), and the Ute. On the last day, teams enter the 'drumming competition', which is not advisable if you're hung over. Tickets are only required for the four competition days, and range from $10 upwards. Tickets always sell out.

October/November - Tivaivai Exhibition
Cook Island Tivaivai experts display and compete alongside invited guests from overseas.

November - Turama / All Souls Day
Turama is a tradition introduced by Catholic missionaries, where for a night people adorn the graves of loved ones with flowers and candles. Turama has enabled locals, whether Catholic or not, to participate in remembering loved ones who have passed on.

November - Nuku / Gospel Day
A public holiday, the Nuku is a celebration for the Cook Islands Christian Church (CICC) congregations around the island to come together. Each congregation puts together a 20minute drama/dance/musical based on a bible passage.

November - Telecom International Rugby 7s Tournament
Set over 3 days, this tournament is growing in size, stature and skill. Teams from New Zealand, Cook Islands, Australia, Tahiti and Fiji compete against each other in this fast paced sport.

November - Vaka Eiva / Outrigger Canoe Regatta
The Vaka Eiva has been running for 3 years and continues to grow with local teams competing against teams from Tahiti, Australia, New Zealand and Fiji, Niue, Hawaii and Italy. Vaka Ama (Outrigger Canoe Paddling) is one of the most committed team sports here on Rarotonga. Teams train together for months to compete in festivals both overseas and locally. On the last day of Vaka Eiva is the Round Rarotonga Race, and the finish line comes alive with the sound of the drums and cheering supporters to welcome in their teams. One of the highlights of the Vaka Eiva Festival, is the 'sprints', which are held at Muri beach lagoon.

November/December - Te Miere Tiare Festival
Rarotonga's famous Miss Tiare Flower Festival has been running for as long as there have been flowers on the island. Over the course of a week the prestigious festival celebrates the beauty if Rarotonga's flora and fauna and the women who wear it.
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Tours

Rarotonga offers a variety of 'tours' for you to experience more of our island paradise. Some visitors have seen more of the island than some locals who live here. Bookings are essential on all recommended tours.

  • Scenic Flights - arranged with Air Rarotonga. This one-hour flight gives you a bird's eye view of Rarotonga. Flights depend on weather conditions. For more info check out www.airraro.com
  • Pa's Mountain Walk - The local guy with blond dreadlocks, Pa is a very experienced mountain trek guide and is well versed in traditional medicine. There are 2 walks that he takes people on. The Cross Island trek and the Nature Walk. Along the Nature Walk, he will point out certain plants that are used for medicinal purposes as well as, giving you information on the island. For the Cross Island Trek, it is advisable to have a certain level of fitness, as you will be ascending and descending mountains, not hills. Any asthma sufferers may need to think twice as well. Lunch and transport are provided. Bring along something to drink and mosquito repellant. For more info call Pa on 21079.    
  • Tangaroa Tours - is a tour of the island on a open back four-wheel drive, covering mountain tops, ancient traditional marae, the departure point from whence the New Zealand Maori left from, the departure point where traditional lore states that our spirits leap from to return to Avaiki (our Traditional homeland), as well as, other historical sites. Once you've finished the tour, you are brought back to base, where everyone has a meal, cooked traditionally in an umu (underground oven). Everyone is picked up and dropped off from their accommodation. For more info, check out www.tangaroa4x4.co.ck
  • Aitutaki Day Tour - This is a must tour, if you do not plan on spending any time on Aitutaki. Day Tours operate daily except Sunday and depart from Rarotonga Airport at 8am and returns at 5.30pm. For more info check out www.airraro.com
  • Ariki Art Tour - Te Aturangi Nepia-Clamp takes you on a tour of Rarotonga's art trail. For more information call 25325. Te Aturangi is a well known talented carver and his knowledge of the visual arts scene here on Rarotonga is second to none.
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Beaches

White sandy beaches and beautiful lagoons, with varied shades of blue, surround most of Rarotonga. Swim with tropical fish, in the best place for snorkeling, the Fruits of Rarotonga, located on the southern end of the island. Actually this side of the island has the most beautiful beaches on the island. You can find a quiet spot that will be yours for most of the day without seeing too many people. If you want to try kayaking in the lagoon, then drive over to Muri Beach where you can hire them from Sails Restaurant for $5 per hour, for singles and $10 per hour for double kayaks, There is a strong under tow on the northern side of Muri Beach. Right next to the Muri Beach Club is the Ngatangiia Football Field and kayaking past this point will be hard work for you coming back. Always wear a hat and sun block and take plenty of water with you.   Tread carefully during the months of December and February. This is the breeding season for 'trigger fish'. If you walk close to where they lay their eggs, they will nip you. Just slap the top of the water to scare them away. It is advisable to wear reef shoes when going in the sea. The west side of the island will give you beautiful sunsets and there are a number of restaurants on this side that you can take advantage of this.

Nightlife

Nightlife here on Rarotonga is small and still growing. Rarotonga's main strip of clubs and bars is in Avarua. You can walk the whole strip in 15minutes. The best thing to do is park your car/bike somewhere and just walk from bar to bar. It's safe to walk around here. Most locals will hop from one place to the next all night to find that buzz, or person. Other popular venues are less than 10minutes drive from town. There is no dress code at the bars on Rarotonga. Popular nights at some venues are pointed out below. Nearly all of these places offer 'drink cards', where you pay $30 - $40 for 8 - 10 drinks. Bars and clubs are licensed to serve until midnight Monday through to Saturday, except for Friday where they can close at 2am. Sunday is observed as a sacred day and therefore alcohol is not sold unless it accompanies a meal at a restaurant. Alcohol is sold around the island in local shops, between the hours of 9am - 9pm.

BC
Otherwise known as the Banana Court, the BC has history. We'll leave it at that. Its most popular nights are Monday, Wednesday and Friday nights. Wednesday night brings in a young local R n B flavored crew while Friday night has a more grass roots feel crowd. Tuesday night is live acoustic music in the Garden Bar, which by the way opens at 11am. The BC is open from Monday - Saturday.

Trader Jacks
This bar is situated on the harbour in Avarua. Trader Jacks is a popular venue with a mixed crowd. Great location makes for near perfect day and night out at this bar.

Whatever Bar & Grill
Has a 'whatever!' attitude about everything, which makes for a fun night out. Great mixed party crowd who sometimes don't even realize the moon lit stars above them. Whatever. This is one of the most popular bars with visitors' and locals. Wednesday, Friday and Saturday nights are busy up here. Open Monday through to Saturday.

RSA (Returned Servicemen Association|)
The RAZA, is located across the road from our airport and takes off every Monday night between 10pm and midnight. Popular night with both young locals and visitors, it features loud music, no air conditioning and cheap drinks. All the ingredients for a sweaty party night out. Open Monday - Saturday. No hats allowed to be worn in here, as a sign of respect for our 'service men' that died in the war.

Staircase Restaurant and Bar
Situated in the heart of Avarua, Staircase is the most popular dance spot on Thursday and Friday nights after 10pm. Staircase features indoor/outdoor flow with large dance space and a balcony with a beautiful view of the ocean. Open Wednesday - Saturday.

10/4
Pool table, lounges, cheap chilled beers on tap, massive screen that only plays sport.

Fishing Club
Mature crowd who love a good drink. Pool table and probably the best players on the island, this place also offers double shots on all top shelf drinks. Lots of local music played here. The Fishing Club has character and regulars to match. Cheap drinks and has a fish and chips shop out the back where you can sit down and stare out to sea.

Roadhouse
The new kid on the block. Lots of local artwork around the bar and most of the staff wear fluorescent vests. Lots of room here, with outdoors seating area, the Roadhouse pulls in a local crowd and turns it up. Back to Top

Getting Around Here

Buses
There are 2 buses on Rarotonga, Clockwise and Anti-Clockwise. Their drivers will tell you that they are the only one's who run on time. They're right. There is no bus station, just a bus stop, located in Avarua next door to the main CITC store. They depart from here every hour on the hour to go 'clockwise', and 25 minutes after every hour, to go 'anti-clockwise'. If you want to catch the bus, you just need to wave one down anywhere on the coastal road.

Taxi
Taxis' on the Rarotonga do not have a meter that ticks away cents and dollars. Rather you will be charged a set rate. Standard rates are $15 for every quarter of the island that you pass through. Check out the Yellow Pages in our Cook Islands Telephone Directory for ph nbrs.

Rental Vehicles Scooters, motorbikes, bicycles, cars and vans are available for hire at affordable prices from various places around Rarotonga. Check out the Yellow Pages in our Cook Islands Telephone Directory for ph nbrs. Scooters are an easy and enjoyable way of going around the island. Back to Top

Eating Out

Café Salsa
Café Salsa makes delicious food. They are located in the middle of Avarua, right next to the CITC shopping center. Fresh bread is baked daily on the premises and their pizzas are some of the best on the island. Their meals are consistent and always fresh. They are also licensed to sell alcohol, serving beers, spirits and wines. They are open for breakfast and lunch 7days a week and serve dinner Wednesday through to Saturday from 6pm onwards. Bookings are essential. You have a choice of eating out front on the pavement and watch people go about their day; indoors, amongst it all, or out the back, away from the hustle and bustle of being in a café. This place gets busy every day; so a little patience is called for. It's all worth the wait though.

Tamarind House
The Tamarind House is one of the most popular restaurants on the island. They are located in Tupapa, less than 5 minutes from town, heading towards the eastern side of the island. The food is fresh and consistent.   The Vanilla Brulee here is a must; actually, anything on the dessert menu is a must. The hardest thing is to leave room for it.   The Tamarind is open for breakfast and lunch 7 days a week, and for dinner 6 nights a week closing on Monday nights. Bookings are essential for lunch and dinner.

Sails Restaurant
Located on Muri beach in Ngatangiia, Sails Restaurant is a great place to sit and eat your meal or drink cocktails while enjoying the view. To your right you have the tiny picturesque islet, Taakoka. In front of you, the lagoon stretches out to the ocean embracing Koromiri just to the left. Oneroa catches your eye as you watch people walk up and down Muri beach.

Keep it simple.
The menu here is just that. Not profusing to be anything flash, Sails beckons those who want to try flavorsome meals. There is a lot of local influence in the food at Sails and this adds to their mainstay. The service here is one of the top on the island. The wine list is ok. The cocktails are great time consumers. The music is easy on the ear and even when it rains, this place is cool. Open 7 days a week from 11am onwards for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Bookings are essential for dinner. Saturdays are Sailing Club days, which means the menu all day and night is snack food; an unfortunate hiccup in the lease agreement.

Whatever Bar and Grill
Great views day and night (especially during a sunset or during a full moon) from the 'balcony" which is the Whatever! Bar and Grill. Lunch is served from 12pm - 2pm, and dinner from 6pm - 9pm. The bar usually closes around midnight and 2am on Friday nights. Bookings are essential for dinner. Meals include fish, beef or chicken burgers, and fish or steak meals. Reasonably priced, you can enjoy your meal to the sounds of the Haro band, which play up here on a Wednesday night between 7pm - 9pm. Whatever! is located behind the Pacific Computers in Avarua.

Pawpaw Patch
This restaurant is small and full of atmosphere. The menu here is flavorsome adding to its reputation as one of the best restaurants on the island. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner; Pawpaw Patch is located in Titikaveka, housed inside the Moana Sands Resort. Tuesday night from 7-9pm has Kura and her sister Lei play a great live set. Good soul food.  

Trader Jacks
Trader Jacks has one of the best locations on Rarotonga for both dining and drinking, in the heart of Avarua. Open 7days a week, for lunch and dinner. Go for the lunch.

Staircase Restaurant
Open from Wednesday through to Saturday for dinner from 6pm onwards.   Bookings essential. Wednesday night is 'steak nite', which is usually under the $20 mark. Thursday and Friday nights are the 'island nights' up here. Meals are made up of ika mata, taro, mainus, chicken or fish, and banana. Two of the top dance groups perform up here, with the Friday night show featuring our current Miss Cook Islands and recently crowned Miss South Pacific, Krystina Kauvai.

Deli-licious
Recently opened and very popular, this café serves up a mean coffee, yummy breakfast, brunch and snacks. Deli style foods, located in Muri, Ngatangiia, this place is small, chilled and it gets points for music selection.

Vaima
Open Monday to Saturday. Live acoustic music on Saturday's featuring Kura Happ in soulful song which is sure to please along with a medley of tasty appetisers and well proportioned mains. Pleasently lit and decorated to a distinctive Cook Island flavour. Friendly staff and a couple of cosy Pinots to keep the lights lit.

Windjammer
Some would say the best food on the island, definitely a case l care not to argue. Imaginative use of local product prepared and presented to please the eye with some well matched wines to compliment. Thoughtful service from Maire and her team.

The Café
The busiest café on Rarotonga, the Café is in the heart of town, across from the Makea Ariki Palace grounds. Food here is fast, tasty and reasonable. Coffee is always made by Neil who is one of the owners. His son, Reuben is the magician in the kitchen. Great in the sense that you chat, read magazines, watch the world go by (slowly) or just pick up a good coffee as you pass through town.

Nu Bar
Just down the road from the airport, Nu Bar has the best steak deal on the island at $10.00. Unpretentious and always full, the venue offers a great mix of locals and visiters enjoying the no frills atmosphere of a perfect steak.   Back to Top

Local Food

Food plays a major part in Cook Islands culture. Below is a list of local food that you may come across while you are visiting Rarotonga. Okay, you're on holiday. You've more than likely tried Spaghetti Bolognese, Sushi, and Doner Kebabs etc. The very least you can do is try at least 1 traditional dish. Some of our foods are rich because a main ingredient in them is coconut cream. Traditionally, meals were cooked in an Umu or earth oven. Some locals still prepare their food this way. Some sell umu at the Punanga Nui Markets or at various stores around Rarotonga. At some 'Island Nights' (see Island Nights below), an umu is prepared for dining guests. Seafood on Rarotonga is beautiful. There a number of fish shops in town and just out of town. Most restaurants have fish on their mains menu. Try the 'broadbill'. It won't disappoint you.

  • Nu - young Coconut. Best when drunk cold on hot days. Throw a couple in the fridge and when you've finished drinking, break it by smashing it on the ground and eat the young flesh inside. Available all year round. Sold at village stalls, at the Punanga Nui Markets and at some eateries around the island.
  • Nita - Pawpaw / Papaya. Great for breakfast, especially with lime and grated akari (mature coconut) A green pawpaw is unripe, but left a couple of days and they ripen turning yellow and voila. Unless you want to cleanse your insides, avoid eating too much at once or the black seeds. Grows all year round. Sold almost everywhere.
  • 'I'i - Chestnuts. These are seasonal and when they are around they go fast. Ask around when you arrive, you might be lucky.
  • Poke - Baked Pudding. Banana Poke is the most cooked Poke on Rarotonga. Boiling over ripe bananas, allow it to cool and add arrowroot starch and throw it in the oven to set. Once coked, spoon some out and dip into coconut cream, thickened by adding corn flour. This is a rich pudding eaten at room temperature. People who are not use to it will eat it as a dessert. We eat Poke in place of a potato or bread. Poke can be made from pumpkin, pawpaw, maniota and cabin bread (cream crackers). Poke is sold around the island, especially on Sunday and at the Punanga Nui Markets on Saturday morning.
  • Ika Mata - Ika Mata or Raw fish is a delicacy here on Rarotonga. Ika Mata is made to suit individual taste. Usually it is a blend of chopped tomatoes, cucumbers and spring onions added to diced raw fish and covered with coconut cream. Lemon or Lime Juice is then added to flavor the dish, as opposed to before the coconut cream, where it will cook the fish. Add salt and pepper to taste. This dish can be bought at shops from around the island, especially on Sunday, at the Punanga Nui Markets on Saturday morning and at various restaurants around the island.
  • Varaoa Karo - Manihiki bread. This is a 'damper' type bread that when cooked is broken into small pieces and a sauce made of coconut cream sweetened and thickened is poured over. Sold at the Punanga Nui Markets on Saturday morning and at shops around the island, especially on Sunday.
  • Eke - Eke or Octopus is another rich dish. The octopus is cleaned and cut into small pieces and boiled until tender. Some of the water is discarded and coconut cream is added and cooked further adding curry or other spices to taste.
  • Rukau - Cooked Taro leaves or Rukau is yet another rich dish that we indulge in. Rukau can be cooked by boiling or by placing them in the umu. An even richer dish is when pork is added to the Rukau with chopped onions and coconut cream. Rukau can be bought from the Punanga Nui Markets on Saturday morning, at various shops around the island, especially on Sunday and in some restaurants. Rukau has a similar consistency to that of cooked spinach that is then put through a blender and coconut cream added to it.  
  • Tai - Tai or coconut sauce. Tai is grated coconut flesh that has water and salt added to it, before its sauce is squeezed into a container. Tai is sold in recycled bottles and looks like milk. Some like their Tai fresh and some people prefer to add garlic, chillies or onions and let their Tai ferment. Not a good idea to try the fermented version unless your stomach is made out of lead. Tai is poured over meals of fish or meats, mainus, taro or maniota, chop suey, ika mata and poke. Sold at the Punanga Nui Markets and shops around the island, especially on Sunday.
  • Taro - A root vegetable. Taro has an acquired 'taste'. Well, it doesn't really have a taste. We eat it as an accompaniment to meals. Taro can be bought from Punanga Nui Markets on Saturday morning and shops around the island and in some restaurants. Some restaurants make Taro chips, which are a lot more palatable with visitors.
  • Maniota - A root vegetable. Maniota also has an acquired 'taste'. Shops around the island will usually sell maniota, alongside taro and cooked green bananas.
  • Mainus - Cook Island Potato Salad. Mainus is the transliteration of mayonnaise and of course our mayonnaise is just as rich. We not only mix the mayonnaise in with the potato salad; we smother it on top as well. Beautiful. Mainus can be sold at the Punanga Nui Markets on Saturday morning and at stores around the island, especially on Sunday. Mainus is also served as a side dish at some restaurants.
  • Locally grown Fruit - Banana, mango, guava, star fruit, passion fruit, pineapple, and oranges. All of these fruit are seasonal except for banana, which grow all year round.
  • Locally grown Vegetables - Pumpkin, tomatoes, spinach, string beans, potatoes, cucumber, Chinese cabbage, kumara (sweet potato), lettuces, and cabbages.  
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Markets

The Punanga Nui markets are located 2minutes from the center of town and are open from Monday - Saturday. From Monday through to Friday the permanent stalls at the markets open selling all matter of arts and crafts, as well as, food stalls. On Saturday morning the markets come alive as casual stallholders set up by 7am and locals and visitors alike, flock in to scramble for seasonal fruits and vegetables, flowers, ei katu, fresh fish, all sorts of meals, clothes, dvds etc. Try to get there early for the best flowers and produce.

Rarotonga's Traditional Side

Rarotonga is divided into 3 vaka (tribes), which are Te Au o Tonga, Takitumu and Puaikura.   Within each vaka are oire (villages) and within each oire are tapere (sub districts). Each vaka is headed by ariki (high chief).

Te Au o Tonga starts from Tuoro at the top of the west side of the island and continues clockwise across the top of the island to the end of Tupapa, at the top of the east coast.

There are 3 ariki in Te Au o Tonga - Makea Nui, Makea Vakatini and Makea Karika.

Takitumu starts from Matavera at the top of the east coast of the island and continues clockwise around the southern coast to the end of Titikaveka, which is the south west coast of the island.

There are 2 ariki in Takitumu - Pa Ariki and Kainuku.

Puaikura starts at the south west coast of the island and continues up the west coast to Tuoro.

The sole ariki for Puaikura is Tinomana Ariki.
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About the Locals

Only in Paradise will you wear flowers and in the Cook Islands, we love them. The Tiare Maori (gardenia taitensis) is a favorite here, followed closely by the Tiare Taina (gardenia augusta) and the Tipani 'Ara'iti (frangipani). You'll more than likely see people wearing a flower in their ear or in their hair, or an 'ei katu' (floral headpiece) or floral necklaces. People will wear flowers at anytime of day or night. Wearing flowers here is not gender specific. Women wear them too. Floral headpieces and necklaces can be purchased from the markets (see Markets below) every Saturday morning.

While you are visiting here you may hear people address someone as Mama or Papa. This is a sign of respect we have for our elderly that has been ingrained in us since an early age. Actually, our culture is based heavily on respect.

Here on Rarotonga, as is throughout the Cook Islands, local people will tend to bury their beloved ones on their own property. Graves are featured, and cared for to keep the deceased a part of the lives of those still living.

Rarotonga is home to many, some from the outer islands, some from further abroad. The term 'local' has many meanings. There are 'locals' who were born here and either have left and returned to live, or have never left to live overseas. There are 'locals' who were born overseas who have blood ties through parents or grandparents. There are 'locals' who have married someone who has blood ties to Rarotonga and so on and so on. Some 'locals' have never walked out to the reef, some are afraid to swim beyond the reef. Some 'locals' have never worked in a taro plantation, or know how to put an umu down or husk a coconut. Some 'locals' don't speak or understand the Maori language and beyond all of this, is the fact that all the locals want our country to remain the paradise that it is. Back to Top

About the Cook Islands

Located in between Samoa, Tonga and Niue to the west and Tahiti and French Polynesia to the east, we are a group of 15 islands. Of these, only 12 are inhabited. We are geographically divided into 2 groups. The Northern group consist of 6 islands and the Southern group make up the other 9. Each island has their own identity, which makes them unique. Our population stands at 14000, with half of that amount living on the largest island Rarotonga, situated in the Southern group. As the capital and the gateway into the Cook Islands, Rarotonga is also the economic and administrative center. The Cook Islands is renowned as a popular travel destination that still remains a somewhat untouched paradise. We like to keep it that way too.

Our History

History speaks of the Pacific people navigating their way throughout the largest ocean in the world, discovering and settling on islands and then travelling back and forth between them. Using the sun, the stars, the currents and wind patterns, our ancestors asserted themselves as the greatest navigators in the history of mankind.

Cook Island people were a part of this Pacific migration. Each island in the Cooks' can trace their origin back to those that first landed on them and even further back to where they had migrated. The Cook Islands were not united as one country at this point, although contact was frequent as people sailed throughout the 2million square kilometers of Pacific Ocean that surrounds us.

Cook Islanders are a Maori people with close links and similarities to the indigenous people, culturally and linguistically of the Eastern Polynesian islands of Tahiti, French Polynesia, Hawaii, Aotearoa / New Zealand and Rapanui / Easter Island.

In 1901, afraid of being colonized by the French, Ariki (high chiefs) in Rarotonga chose to be annexed by New Zealand under the British Crown. It was at this time that all 15 islands were united as a country under one name.  

In 1965 the Cook Islands became a self-governing country with strong ties between the two countries, and this has enabled us to hold NZ citizenship. Back to Top

Religion

The London Mission Society (LMS) missionaries first arrived in the Cook Islands at Aitutaki in 1821, with a Tahitian convert, Papehia. In 1823 they arrived in Rarotonga and set about converting people here. From here the rest of the Cook Islands and other parts of the Pacific were converted.

The Cook Islands adhere to Sunday as being a day of rest. The whole island comes to a standstill. There are 7 denominations that co-exist here. They are Cook Islands Christian Church (CICC), Latter Day Saints, Seventh Day Adventist, Catholic, Bahai, Apostolic and Assembly of God.

When you drive around the island of Rarotonga, you will see large white coral churches. Our people built these CICC churches when the missionaries arrived here. CICC church services are a popular attraction with our visitors. Attending a service you will hear our traditional hymn (Imene Tuki) being sung. A polyphonic style of singing, the Imene Tuki will remain with you well after the service is over. You will marvel at the 'rito' hats worn by our women. Intricately designed, it is hard not to be taken in by their beauty. Sitting upstairs of the Avarua CICC church will give you a great vantage point to take in how our culture has survived within the church.    

The first Sunday of every month is white Sunday, where you can partake in communion. Visitors are always welcome to attend church services around the island. After the service all visitors are invited to have refreshments with members of the parish. Common sense prevails when it comes to attire. If you want to wear a flower, that's fine. Keep it small and simple. You don't want to make a statement.  Back to Top

Island Nights

A great way to get a broad idea of some of our musical traditions and culture is to go to an island night. Filled with great food, singing and dancing, island nights are not just for visiters on the island, but for locals as well, many of whom are or were dancers or musicians themselves. Below is a list of 'Island Nights' here on Rarotonga. Bookings are essential.

•  Monday : Pacific Resort, Muri, Ngatangiia

•  Tuesday : Edgewater Resort, Arorangi

•  Wednesday : The Rarotongan Beach Resort and Spa, Arorangi

•  Thursday : Staircase Restaurant, Avarua

•  Friday : Pacific Resort, Crown Beach Resort and Staircase Restaurant

•  Saturday : Edgewater Resort, The Rarotongan Beach Resort and Spa

Leaving here

Departure tax is NZ$30 for everyone over 12 years old and NZ$15 for children aged 2 - 11 years old. Anyone under 2 years is exempt. Departure tax can be paid at the Westpac Bank in downtown Avarua or at the airport. Back to Top

Tip Sheet

  • It will usually rain around the time of the new moon.
  • Nudity and even semi-nudity is not allowed on our beaches or anywhere really. The missionaries covered us up and its' stuck.
  • Wear glasses when riding your motorbike or scooter.
  • Its wise to go on any trek up into the mountains with a guide. Full stop!
  • It takes 45 minutes to drive around the island of Rarotonga.
  • We drive on the left side of the road. We have a road code. You wouldn't know it sometimes, but generally commonsense prevails.
  • When driving your motorbikes or scooters around the island, watch out for dogs running out in front of you. They're pretty relaxed as well.
  • Wear a condom. Most clubs on the island provide free condoms.
  • When wearing a flower, wearing it in your right ear means you're single and in your left means you're married,or so they say. If it looks good, it doesn't matter
  • Wear reef shoes when venturing out into the lagoon
  • We don't encourage hitchhiking. We want you to spend your money
  • If you want to know something, find a place or a person, just ask any local. If they don't know, it is more than likely that they'll know someone who does. Back to Top
Glossary    
Kia Orana - kee or rana :  Hello
Pe'ea koe? - pe ea coy :  How are you?
Meitaki - maytuckee :  I am fine / Thank you
Aere ra - ai re ra :  Goodbye (when they are leaving)
E no'o ake ra :  Goodbye (when you are leaving)
Ae - e  Yes
Kare - car de  No
Manea  pretty, handsome
E 'ia moni? :  How much?
E tano e:  that's right
Koka:  to roam
Papa'a :  Caucasion - literally 4 layers
© Rentraro.com 2006 2007
sunset at the heritage, arorangi, rarotonga, cook islands
hibiscus flower
kids playing at muri lagoon
ukelele maker
downtown avarua
mountains up takuvaine valley
passion flower
island band at food festival
bromeliad flower in rarotonga
cook island currency
island boy on beach, rarotonga
beach in vaimaanga rarotonga cook islands
rarotonga lamp
puaikura b's social soccer team in rarogtonga
tropical wedding cook island style
fruitsalad tree
carving of tangaroa
island style tattoo
island style tattoos
traditional quilt - tivaevai
cook island black pearls
cook island basket weave
cook island drums and drummers
cook island child at play
kay george art peice
sylvia marsters cook island artist - art peice
miss tiare celebration
six man outrigger canoe on muri beach
fronds of palm in rarotonga
catholic graves on all souls day rarotonga cook islands
tradtional cook island quilting, tivaevai, rarotonga
lighting of the candles on all souls day catholic graves in panama
cook island international sevens at tereora stadium in rarotonga
paddling sprints in muri lagoon during vaka eiva competition
miss tiare parade float
kids on rock at nikao social centre at sunset
seaview in rarotonga
surfers checking out the social centre in nikao
spectacular beach in titikaveka
paua shell
sea shell collection
motor scooter dashboard
roadhouse bar in arorangi
friday night at the staircase in taputapuatea
girls night in rarotonga
rarotonga dj on the cdj's
dance floor at the banana court on wednesday night
scooters at night
rarotonga bus
rearview mirror on scooter
cafe salsa downtime avarua
smoked marlin hash at salsa
island seafood bounty
kids in boat with makeshift sail
sailing boat in muri lagoon
pawpaw plantation
24hr rarofried chicken
sign at market showing island foods
international foodfest
plate of island food
island feast
nu - young coconut great for drinking
taro patch
island fruits at market
mangoes on tree
food stall at saturday morning market
island dish of fish taro and mayonaise
pigs on walkabout
corned beef cans - a favourite with locals
saturday morning at punanganui market in avarua
cook island musicains at the market
market stall
cross and flowers at catholic graves in panama
cook island kids at play at the beach
tiare maori flower
frangipani tree
ei katu making
ei katu finished product
cook island flag showing the fifteen stars representing the fifteen islands of the cooks
arorangi sunset
father and son
grandma and grandson
church in matavera
church sign
statue of jesus with ei
moon
sunset in the west
plane leaving rarotonga
climbing a coconut tree
rarotonga rainbow
pareu fabric for shirts and skirts
hukeleles ready for sale, rarotonga, cook islands
fishing boats in dock, rarotonga
cook islands surfer at the boiler